An object of Desiree

small boy sitting in the garden

It was with great pride that this Saturday afternoon my son Alex harvested his first potato crop. The story started some months earlier when I explained to my two-year-old how when a potato is placed in the ground at the right time of year a little bit later it produces lots of baby potatoes. I showed him how the red potato (Desiree) had started to shoot and even how to place it in the ground. I then continued to mow the lawn and left him digging happily in the mud.

I had completely forgotten about the potato until quite recently I noticed a new plant growing and flowering in the garden. My family’s many years’ involvement in the fruit and vegetable industry did not help me in the answer to the mystery plant until my son said two words in his ever-expanding vocabulary “DIG POTATO!”

small boy holding a potato, smiling

How had I been so stupid? Of course he had planted the potato while I had been otherwise engaged and it had now grown and would soon be ready for harvesting. For the next few weeks we both watched the plant flower and then wilt waiting anxiously for the day when we would dig her up.Well this Saturday I took my garden fork and he took his hand spade and we dug up the plant. The excitement on his face as one by one we discovered potato after potato was a joy to behold. It truly was one of my happiest moments.

red desiree potatoes

This has only encouraged us to attempt grander things next year, a tomato plant perhaps?

New Covent Garden Market

new Covent garden Market logo

The government has given its consent to the redevelopment of the new covent garden market site at nine elms in VauxhallLondon, following a review of the business case by both the treasury and the department for environment, food and rural affairs.

The market has been based on its current 57 acre site since 1974, with 250 companies employing 2800 people specializing in fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers and catering services. However the changing nature of the tenants, an aging infrastructure and a sprawling site layout means the market is uneconomic to run in the long term without new investment.

The development project will provide modern, new market facilities for traders and customers alike, funded by the release of some surplus land. It will mark the most significant new investment in the market for a generation.                             

Golden Beet Risotto

Golden Beet Risotto

makes 4-6 servings

Ingredients:

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 cup Arborio rice
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 3 cups vegetable stock – heated and kept hot on stovetop
  • 2 golden beets, 3 if they are on the smaller side – separated from greens, scrubbed and dry
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese + more for shaving
  • salt and pepper

Method:

  • Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
  • Package beats in foil, place on a baking sheet and bake about 45 minutes, until they slightly give to touch.
  • Allow the beats to cool in packaging, and then rub off the skins with a paper towel, using a knife for hard to get spots.
  • Cut into 1″ dice, or whatever size you prefer them to be in the risotto.
  • Heat stock over low heat, keep hot.
  • In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-low heat. Add rice and stir with a wooden spoon until it is thoroughly coated and slightly toasted.
  • Add wine, and cook until it is reduced by half, just a couple of minutes.
  • Add a ladleful (about 1/2 cup) of hot stock, stir until almost all liquid is absorbed.
  • Continue adding stock and stirring, a ladleful at a time, waiting until most liquid is absorbed before adding more, about 20-25 minutes total.
  • Constantly stir, and taste the risotto often to prevent over cooking. The rice should be al dente, but not crunchy – it will also continue to cook when removed from the heat.
  • Stir in beets, butter, cheese, and a pinch of salt and pepper.
  • Garnish with freshly shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

many thanks to  Almost a Chef

Twice baked cauliflower & gorgonzola soufflés

Twice baked cauliflower & gorgonzola soufflés

Ingredients:

  • 2T olive oil
  • ½ small brown onion, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced
  • 150g cauliflower florettes
  • 1/2C (125mL) chicken stock
  • 40g butter + extra for greasing
  • 1T wholegrain mustard
  • 40g plain flour
  • 250mL milk, warmed
  • 3 eggs, separated
  • 100g gorgonzola piccante, crumbled
  • 1/2C (125mL) pouring cream
  • 60g parmesan cheese, finely grated
  • walnut & celery salad, to serve

Method:

  • Grease 4 one cup capacity ramekins or coffee mugs and preheat oven to 200C.
  • Heat oil in a frying pan and cook onion over medium heat until golden brown and softened.
  • Add garlic and cauliflower and cook, stirring occasionally for approx 5 mins or until cauliflower is starting to brown.
  • Add stock and bring to a simmer.
  • Cook for approx 15mins or until stock has evaporated and cauliflower is softened.
  • Puree cauliflower in a food processor and season well.
  • Heat butter in a medium saucepan until melted.
  • Add mustard and flour and stir until well combined.
  • Cook over a medium heat, stirring for a few minutes.
  • Remove from heat and gradually whisk in the warm milk.
  • Return to the heat and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly.
  • Cook for 5mins or until thickened. Stir through cauliflower puree and egg yolks.
  • Gently stir in gorgonzola chunks.
  • Whisk egg whites to firm peaks and delicately fold through cauliflower mixture until just combined.
  • Gently divide between prepared ramekins and bake 20-30mins or until risen and golden.
  • Allow to cool then cover and refrigerate until needed.

When ready to serve:

  • Heat oven to 200C and pour 2T cream over each ramekin.
  • Top with grated parmesan and bake for 20-25mins or until puffed up, golden and sizzling.
  • Place on 4 warmed dinner plates and serve immediately with salad passed separately.

many thanks to  StoneSoup

Walnut & celery salad

Walnut & celery salad

Ingredients:

  • 4 sticks celery
  • 1 celery heart
  • 75g (3/4C) walnut haves, toasted
  • 1T Dijon mustard
  • 2T tarragon or white wine vinegar
  • ½ clove garlic, finely chopped
  • 4T extra virgin olive oil

Method:

  • Using a mandoline or vegetable peeler, shave celery sticks into long ribbons and place in a bowl of iced water.
  • Finely slice celery heart and reserve pale yellow leaves.
  • In a large bowl combine mustard, vinegar, garlic and oil and season well.
  • Drain celery ribbons and toss through dressing along with the sliced celery heart and leaves.
  • Arrange on a serving platter and sprinkle over walnuts.

many thanks to  StoneSoup

Slow roasted pork belly with baked apple & onion

Slow roasted pork belly with baked apple & onion

serves 8

Inspired by Karen Martini in Where the Heart Is.

Ingredients:

  • 3 heads garlic
  • 1 small bunch sage, leaves picked & roughly chopped
  • 1T smoky paprika
  • 2T fennel seeds, ground
  • 2T olive oil
  • 2kg pork belly, bones removed and skin scored (get your butcher to do this)
  • 2T olive oil, extra
  • 3 red onions
  • 8 small apples
  • 1C (250mL) dry white wine


Method:

  • Preheat oven to 180C. Break garlic into individual cloves but leave the skins on. Place in a small ovenproof dish and bake for 20-30mins or until garlic is very soft. Allow to cool and then squeeze out soft flesh into a small bowl, discarding the skins. Stir through sage, paprika, fennel seeds and olive oil to form a chunky paste. Season.
  • Place pork belly on a wire rack skin side up and position over the sink. Pour boiling water oven the skin to soften it then pat dry. Place belly on a clean surface skin side down and spread the paste in a long row down the center of the belly. Roll the belly into a log and tie with kitchen string to hold in place. If any of the garlic mix oozes out just stuff it back in the best you can.
  • Increase oven temperature to 250C. Peel and slice each onion into three thick rounds and place in a layer on the bottom of a baking dish. Place pork on top of the onion with the join side down. Rub with extra olive oil and sprinkle generously with sea salt.
  • Bake for 30mins. Reduce heat to 160C and add wine and 1C water. Score apples in a ring around their middles and place in the baking dish next to the pork. Bake for an additional 2 ½ to 3 hours or until pork is tender inside and the skin is golden. Drain cooking juices into a saucepan and allow pork to rest in a warm place. While the pork is resting bring juices to a simmer to reduce slightly.  To serve slice pork into round approx 1cm thick divide pork slices, onion and apples between 8 warmed plates. Drizzle over reduced juices and serve immediately.

many thanks to  StoneSoup

Tomato Prices Up

The prices of tomatoes especially plum and beef have shot up.

Although this always happens at this time of year it is always a shock to the system when it happens. We are now getting our plum tomato direct from Sicily in a bid to keep the price down.

We have also lowered our margin on these items knowing that the prices will fall shortly as the Canary season takes hold.

The great chip race

big chips test, raw and cooked chips on a plastic white board in grass

Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, golden in colour and chunky. We were agreed that these were the quintessential components of the great British chip. But which potato to use? This was the brain-teasing quandary put to me by London’s finest fruit and vegetable supplier last week. Eurofrutta needed answers and only I could provide them.And so my Heston Blumenthal – style experiment began on Saturday morning, somewhat earlier than planned, as I was awoken by a loud ringing. At first I thought it was my Barbera – induced hangover (the wine had come from Marks and Spencer’s by the way and very nice it was too) but the noise was my doorbell, announcing my alarmingly punctual delivery of potatoes from Eurofrutta.In my box of delights were seven varieties of potatoes all clearly labelled and beautifully presented. The time had come to learn the truth. And so the test began.I chose seven different potato varieties and cut them into chunky sizes, placed them in a pan of hot oil one at a time, covered the pan and waited for them to do their thing. I should have probably tested the temperature of the oil first and given each chip the same amount of cooking time but you can’t be too precise about cooking. The important thing was to remember which potato had been used; which were the contenders for the great chip challenge. ESTIMA, MARFONA, KING EDWARD, MARIS PIPER, DESIREE, BINJI, and MARIS BARD all lined up, sizzled away and changed colour.What surprised me was the difference in colour and texture of each variety. The darker a potato turns when fried the more sugar it contains; the softer it becomes the more water it comprises. Starch turns to sugar in a potato when kept in storage for too long or if held at too cold a temperature – so if the chip goes dark, it’s not suitable for chips.And the winner was… the Maris Piper. It turned out to be crispy on the outside, soft in the centre and positively glistening gold.

What’s in season – October

This is the main season for apples and pears. The first bramleys are in season as are figs. Also available are sweetcorn, marrrow, mushrooms, beetroots, squash, watercress, onions, and leeks. The Jerusalem artichoke season begins, while cauliflowers are at their peak, as are main crop potatoes and carrots, sprouts, and broccoli. Lettuce is running out by the middle of the month, and courgettes finish towards the end.

Sources: The Soil Association, The Guardian, John Davenport, Bob Kennard, Farm, and the National Farmers’ Union.